A Flight of Chocolate

A few weeks ago while planning a vacation in Cheticamp and the Annapolis Valley, I began flipping through the Taste of Nova Scotia guide. It proved to be very valuable for identifying great places to eat and/or drink. One entry in particular stood out above the rest: Petite Patrie Craft Chocolate in Kentville. I added it to my itinerary without doing much research other than how close it was to other destinations, like the Maritime Express Cider Co.

When we arrived, we discovered that it was possible to order a flight of chocolate. It consisted of 5 pre-selected mini bars, each of different origin, as well as one molded bonbon of your choice. We ordered it along with two Americanos, and sat down to enjoy a chocolate journey. Chocolate ranging from 70% to 90%. Origins of Honduras, Colombia, Peru, and Vietnam. We started from the darkest and worked our way through 5 different flavours. 

Snapping each mini bar in half, we each savoured the perfectly tempered chocolate. We were surprised that the 90% Colombia-origin bar wasn't as extreme as we'd expected a "brute" chocolate to be. It was smooth and well rounded. We both loved the Vietnam-origin chocolate the best -- it had fruity notes. Our hazelnut bonbon decorated with a cocoa butter transfer was sublime. And it all paired perfectly with the coffee. 

Sadly, while we were mid-flight, we overheard why there was a 20% discount on everything. Petite Patrie Craft Chocolate is closing their storefront. In fact, as I type this, there is a post on their Facebook page selling off all of their furniture, including the very table and chairs we occupied less than a week ago. Their website doesn't list any of their products anymore and it states that shipping has been discontinued, no longer viable due to rising costs. 

And this explains why when we went to buy the Vietnam-origin bar to take home with us, we couldn't. They were selling off their stock in anticipation of the closure. I settled for a Mexico-origin bar, a Peru-origin bar, and one made with goat's milk. I'm looking forward to trying them in the coming weeks. 

My heart, however, is sad for these chocolate makers. First, the majority of people don't have an appreciation for fine chocolate or single-origin chocolate, so they don't understand why it costs more. Second, there is a great deal of labour involved in bean-to-bar production (sorting, roasting, grinding, conching, etc) compared to the work of a chocolatier (tempering chocolate and creating pralines, etc). And third, the chocolate business makes the majority of its profit during a very narrow window of time -- Christmas through Easter, with Valentine's Day being the biggest holiday. For the rest of the year, you have to be in production mode, but you're not selling anywhere close to as much as you would between December and April. 

The business model is a difficult one for the small batch, craft chocolate producer. Throw in a pandemic with lockdowns and ever-changing restrictions to navigate, and it's nearly impossible.

On the bright side, Petite Patrie Craft Chocolate intends to return to its roots, continuing to sell at farmers' markets in Kingston and Wolfville. (It's unclear if their bars will still be available at other retailers.) The owner will be able to focus on their true love (craft chocolate) instead of diversifying the business with waffles and sandwiches to cover expenses. And you will still be able to buy these exquisite bars. 

So, if you're in the area and have the opportunity, I highly recommend that you expand your taste horizons and support this small Nova Scotian business. 

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