Showing posts with label meltaway. Show all posts
Showing posts with label meltaway. Show all posts

2023 Christmas Assortment

Now that the majority of the boxes have been delivered, I can blog more specifically about this year's Christmas assortment!

For 2023, I made 30 four-flavour boxes, up from last year's 24. This was deliberate on my part, since I had planned to offer a few up for sale on Facebook for those who don't normally get to try my chocolates. Thanks to slightly larger batch sizes for two of the recipes, I also unexpectedly had enough pieces to pack 12 two-flavour boxes, half of which I also intended to sell. Unfortunately, my plan was foiled last week when my travel itinerary abruptly changed due to weather and I left for home two days early. I handed out the extra four-flavour boxes to individuals in the hall before leaving campus and tossed the six remaining two-flavour boxes into my carry-on to give out at our annual Crappy Craft Night

The four-flavour box included a salted caramel enrobed in dark chocolate, an orange cardamom truffle hand-rolled in dark chocolate, an apricot brandy praline with a dark chocolate shell, and a milk chocolate peanut butter meltaway. The salted caramel featured Sonoran sea salt, given to me by a friend who lives in Arizona. The orange cardamom truffle was prepared using whole cardamom pods, given to me by another friend earlier in the year. The peanut butter meltaway contained no special ingredients, but was a departure from the usual mint meltaway (and I think it would make a delicious filling in the future). But the really special creation this year was the apricot brandy praline.

A nod to my grandmother, who was known to keep a bottle of apricot brandy in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator, this praline has been in the works since January. It was then that I decided I would try a layered bonbon, initially thinking I would pair an apricot brandy ganache with a layer of marzipan, since I love the combination of apricots and almonds. In July, while in Newfoundland, I purchased a bottle of apricot brandy, since it doesn't appear to be available in any Nova Scotian liquor stores (in comparison, NLC had several different brands to choose from -- obviously Newfoundlanders like their apricot brandy). By the fall, my thinking had evolved and instead of pairing the ganache with marzipan, I decided to pair it with apricot jam to brighten and emphasize the apricot flavour. Featuring a dark chocolate shell decorated with copper edible luster dust, the final product had a dollop of apricot jam encased in apricot brandy ganache. And while I only got to try one of them before packaging, I think the jam was the right decision to create a burst of flavour. I was thrilled with the results -- a true homage to Honora. 

After filling 30 shells with apricot brandy ganache, I found myself with enough ganache to make another 20 truffles, and so I piped and rolled and hand-enrobed those as well. They were paired with the remaining peanut butter meltaways to create smaller treat boxes. While the truffles hit a little different than the pralines, due to the absence of the apricot jam, they still pack a flavour punch. 

I'm very pleased with how this year's assortment turned out. I think it's some of my best work, not only in terms of the flavours, but also in terms of the execution. This is the first year that I've nailed the temper of my chocolate for every piece that I produced. And I finally feel like I'm getting the hang of hand-rolling truffles. 

Hopefully those lucky enough to receive these boxes enjoyed them. Chocolate made in truly small batch quantities is qualitatively different from that which is mass-produced. And every piece is a labour of love. 

The best things really do come in small packages. 



Meltaway Magic

Have you ever savoured a mint meltaway and wondered why it was such a magical experience? The answer is eutectics. 

A eutectic mixture is one in which the melting point of the mixture is lower than the melting point of its discrete parts. In the confectionary context, this usually refers to a mixture that combines two different fats (cocoa butter and coconut oil), which results in a melting point much lower than that of either cocoa butter or coconut oil. When the combined fat hits the palate, it quickly melts and disperses the flavour. 

Boom! The magical meltaway effect. 

Greweling observes: "The transition from a solid to a liquid state happens so quickly that it is possible to feel the heat being absorbed from the mouth. This is the reason that centers of this description actually leave a cool feeling on the palate as they rapidly melt" (Chocolates and Confections, page 411).

This cooling sensation can be amplified through flavouring, such as mint, which itself has a cooling sensation. I've also made wintergreen meltaways. However, the meltaway technique can also be used with nut pastes.

It's easy enough to make a meltaway from an online recipe like this one (which is based on a recipe in Greweling's book). While it is common to "slab" the meltaway and then cut it into pieces, I prefer to pour the mixture into candy cups and let it crystallize. For me, it's easier for handling and packaging.

These are one of the easiest things you could ever make and are perfect for gifting this time of year.

And, as an added benefit, you can discuss eutectics over a cocktail at your office Christmas party!