My Mind Is Blown

The third assignment in my Professional Chocolatier program is a tasting assignment. It required that we assemble a variety of chocolates according to guidelines provided by the instructor, recruit a group of friends, and then conduct a formal tasting. I'll blog about that process next week and reveal some of the results, including a complete list of what we tried, but for now I just have to share with you how shocked I am by some of the flavours today.

We were tasting dark chocolate that did not (I repeat did NOT) have any inclusions (nuts, fruit, etc) or added flavours (essential oils, extracts other than vanilla, etc). Any flavours we perceived were from the cacao beans themselves (which were different varieties grown in different countries) as developed in the fermentation and roasting processes. As I planned this event, I was very worried that I might not actually be able to detect any notes. In fact, I purchased a bar several weeks ago and was eating a piece of it every night trying to "find" flavour notes in it. All I could taste was cocoa. I thought I was doomed to failure.

Today as I was preparing the chocolate for the tasting, breaking bars into smaller pieces, I happened to taste a few pieces as I was going. Most just tasted like cocoa and were delicious but unremarkable. Then I tasted one that was overwhelmingly winey. I couldn't believe how strong it was. This bean-to-bar sample was made from criollo cacao beans in Peru. And I could not get the taste out of my mouth. I wish I could say that I appreciated it, but I really didn't. When I mentioned it to a friend, he commented, "But I thought you liked wine?" Clearly I like my chocolate and wine to be separate. Another sample that I tried tasted like geraniums. I suppose this is an example of what's meant by "floral notes," but I can't say that I am a fan.

What has emerged from today is an appreciation for the diversity of flavours present in chocolate, as well as how we each perceive those flavours differently. I'm also now committed to eating more chocolate! (Totally justified as research, right?) And as you'll all learn in my next blog post, price and percentage aren't predictors of flavour.

Buying All The Things

I think I mentioned in an earlier post that I quickly realized when I started the Professional Chocolatier program that to get the most out of it and meet the standard set by instructors, tutors, and peers (which was higher than I'd initially anticipated), I felt I couldn't just "make do" with what I had. Instead, I decided to invest in a few additional tools and supplies. It's been an expensive few weeks, so I thought you might like to see what I purchased.

First, there's the chocolate. I was required to purchase 5kg (3kg dark, 1kg milk, 1kg white) for the course. I chose Callebaut, which I ordered from Ontario. Pictured is 4kg of the 5kg -- the other kilo has been melted and tempered four times during practice sessions and doesn't look as pretty.

I also was required to purchase a variety of chocolates for a tasting assignment that's coming up in a few weeks. And, now that I'm getting into this, I feel a compulsion to buy just about every different brand of dark chocolate that I stumble upon for research purposes. I don't think I've ever had this much chocolate in my apartment before.

Then there's the stuff to decorate the chocolate. The cocoa butter transfer sheets were required for an assignment. We were told to purchase as small a quantity as possible, but I wanted options so I ordered three instead of one. They are at least double the size I had anticipated. It's hard to see, but one has a gold swirl pattern, one has white snowflakes, and the third has red hearts.

The bottles of pre-coloured cocoa butter for painting chocolates were optional, but once I started developing my products through the first assignment, I felt like I had to have them. I bought white shimmer and ocean blue. Stay tuned.

Then there were a few additional purchases for the actual process of melting chocolate. First, a microwave safe bowl, since I couldn't confirm that the mixing bowls I already owned were indeed microwave safe (the sticker only said dishwasher).

Following my first tempering attempt, though, I realized I needed a new spatula that was silicone from tip to end, as well as a more flexible "bench scraper" for use on the marble. I found myself in the paint department buying a putty knife. It works beautifully.

Finally, I felt the need to buy professional chocolate molds. I already own a variety of chocolate molds for the home chef. These molds work perfectly fine for small batches of chocolate, but they typically aren't as deep as professional molds (making it more challenging to make filled centres). As well, professional molds are usually made of polycarbonate, rather than a more flexible plastic, and they result in a glossier finished surface. Because they don't have the "lip" usually found on the edge of the home versions, it's much easier to fill them and scrape the excess chocolate back into the bowl for reuse. I bought two for now, but I know that I'll be buying more in the future.

I also have to give a shout-out to two friends: Diane and Leanne. Diane gave me a small marble slab for Christmas, which has been critical for my tabliering sessions. Leanne just gave me a heat gun, which I'll use to keep my chocolate in temper while enrobing centres. I truly appreciate the support and will repay them with -- you guessed it -- chocolate!

I've also been very lucky that my mother likes to give me kitchen gadgets as presents. For example, I didn't have to buy a set of dipping forks because my mother gave me a set two years ago (long before I ever thought about taking this course).

I've found one more item that I desperately want to buy, but it's pricey. It's a small appliance for tempering chocolate and then holding it in temper while you work. I can't really justify the expense now, but I've decided that it may be a present to myself when I successfully complete the program.

So how about you? When you start something new, do you make do or do you buy all the things?

Watching My Temper

The second assignment for the Professional Chocolatier program focuses on two methods for tempering chocolate: tabliering and seeding. While I'd had success with seeding before, I'd never tried tabliering.

Tabliering is the traditional process for tempering chocolate, which has been used since chocolate for eating (as opposed to drinking) became a thing. You melt your chocolate, toss 1/3 to 1/2 of it on a marble slab, move it around as it cools to form the right crystal structure, and then toss it back into the bowl with the rest of the melted chocolate to get it back up to a working temperature. Part one of the tempering assignment was a modified version of this process that also required we hold the chocolate in temper for 20 minutes. To check for temper, we did parchment tests at various intervals.

I won't bore you with the details, but let me just say that my first attempt at this -- while it appears to have "worked" -- would have made for a very entertaining video. My workspace isn't really set up for the right flow (no direct line from marble slab to microwave). I felt strangely "unsafe" because I had a heating pad plugged into the outlet on my stove and a hair dryer plugged into the outlet next to my sink (don't worry -- I made sure there was no water around, if not to prevent electrocution, to prevent chocolate from seizing). The one time I tried to test temperature with a thermometer (not required for the assignment), I accidentally dropped it into the bowl of melted chocolate. And I felt very frantic moving between checking temper tests, making notes, setting timers, heating my chocolate, removing it from the heating pad to keep it from overheating, and so on. The image of Lucy working in the chocolate factory came to mind. Deciding that was enough for one night, I cleaned everything up and made a few notes.

Two nights later, I attempted part two of the assignment, which focused on seeding. In seeding, you melt 5 parts chocolate to break down all of the existing crystal structures, you then add in 1 part unmelted chocolate that is already in a tempered state (for example, unmelted callets). The beta 5 crystals from those callets or chocolate buttons encourage the formation of more as they melt and lower the temperature of the chocolate. Again, I was required to hold the chocolate in temper for 20 minutes, checking with parchment tests periodically.

Now, this part of the assignment didn't feel nearly as frantic as the first, perhaps because I was better prepared after completing the first part. As well, this method doesn't require the same level of physical coordination that tabliering does. It does, however, take much longer. I'm still having some issues with my stirring technique. I seem to be introducing some air bubbles in the process, even though this time I kept telling myself to push the chocolate or be more like a paddle. If anyone has ideas for good stirring technique to avoid introducing air into the chocolate, let me know!

All in all, I feel like I've been pretty successful with these first attempts and I'm beginning to formulate responses to various questions that are part of the written submission for the assignment. I do wonder if it was just beginner's luck, because there's no question that I need to practice both techniques to really get comfortable with them. If I ever master tabliering, I'll post a video.

Until then, may I suggest you treat yourself to some chocolate?

Are Chocolate Crystals Aligning?

If you know anything about the chemistry of chocolate, then you understand the metaphor. For the past month, it's seemed like strong beta 5 crystals have been forming in my life.

I first learned how to make molded chocolates when I was in Girl Guides, when I would have been maybe 10 or 11 years old. One of our leaders brought us to the Salvation Army Citadel, melted Wilton candy melts, and showed us how to paint the shells, fill them with dulce de leche or peanut butter, and then cap them. I loved it. I knew the secret of how they got the caramel in the Caramilk bar! (At least theoretically, anyway. The depositing machines they use in mass production have eliminated a few steps.)

Not long after, I started making chocolates at home by myself. The place to buy chocolate molds and candy melts back then was a local religious book and bible shop, strangely enough. You could also get candy melts at a local bulk store. I don't know if I used my allowance or if my parents indulged me and purchased everything for me; either way, I had the basics. And I remember vividly the night that I made dulce de leche by simmering a can of sweetened condensed milk for two hours. I sat in the kitchen at our breakfast table reading a book and "watching" the pot the entire time. And sure enough, like magic, when I opened it the most delicious filling awaited (we ate some of it on ice cream, some of it on its own with a spoon).

A few years after that, while in junior high school, I had a bit of an entrepreneurial streak -- not surprising, considering Trooper Ron (my dad) is an entrepreneur. Always a crafty type, I made Christmas ornaments to sell, both at the local flea market on a Sunday during the holiday season and by special order (a teacher took samples into the staff room for her colleagues to see). To differentiate myself at the flea market and secure a table, which was surprisingly difficult back in its heyday, I also sold hand-made chocolates.

Of course, with broad interests, I moved on to other things. Music became more important as I prepared to audition for music school and then a path emerged leading me into grad school and academia. Over the years, I've maintained my love of crafting, making chocolates, and baking, but I didn't really have time to devote to them in the way that I would have liked.

After moving to Sydney, I had the opportunity to take cake decorating courses at the local Michaels. That was my first taste of learning "professional" decorating techniques. And, not surprisingly, I loved it. I was also good at it -- especially making flowers from gum paste (my most recent project was a Beauty and the Beast cake for a local library fundraiser). I also became addicted to Pinterest and started trying out the various recipes I found there. I even made a giant peanut butter cup for a friend for her birthday (still the most epic dessert I've made). The more I did, the more I wondered how my life would be different if I'd gone into culinary arts instead of music. I also started joking to friends and family that if this PhD thing didn't work out, I was going to move home and open a bakery.

Then about a year ago, I started looking into the possibility of retraining to be a pastry chef and/or baker. Not ready to make a leap, I sought out part-time programs. That's when I stumbled upon an online professional chocolatier program in British Columbia. After several months of deliberation and physiotherapy and chiropractic adjustments to combat back issues caused by my desk job, I had a December that really made me question what I wanted out of life. Home for the holidays with my family, I began seriously considering how to choreograph a move home. Could chocolate be the answer? I talked to a few close friends, who were very supportive of the idea, I mentioned it to my mother, who couldn't see a reason not to do it, and I even chatted with a fellow I'd met on a dating site, but never in person (he was incredibly encouraging). And on December 20th, throwing caution to the wind and my credit card at an online payment system, I registered for the January 2018 start. That's when chocolate crystals started to align.

I woke up the next morning and opened the virtual advent calendar a friend had given me for Christmas. I clicked on the bulb marked "21" and that day's game opened -- a memory game based on a box of chocolates. My task was to match the bonbons as quickly as possible. A sign from the universe?

I chatted with a friend via facebook and mentioned that my first task when I got back to Sydney would be to find someone with a marble counter or pastry board that I could use for the tempering assignment. To my surprise, she told me she had a board I could use.

Friends from across the country and around the world showed support for the idea when I posted it online.

When I returned from Sydney and opened my Christmas presents from one of my best friends, I found a new marble pastry board was already in my apartment waiting for me.

As I began the program last week, I started having ideas for flavour combinations and decorating techniques. The creative part of the program that I was nervous about was coming to me easily. And I even woke up one morning with the name for my business.

Generally, since signing up for this program, I've had bright and positive days, except for some questioning by a friend on Sunday, which kicked me back a few notches (that sort of questioning can be difficult to hear but is productive if it causes you to really think about what you're doing and why). And then yesterday when I opened my new calendar from Telus to write in my assignment due dates, there in front of me was a message from my favourite hippo: Dreaming big.

I'm not sure where all of this will lead, but I feel like I'm getting some very strong signals from the universe.

And that the precious beta 5 chocolate crystals of my life are starting to align.

Professional Chocolatier Program: Part 1

Yesterday, while many were without power due to a crazy storm referred to as a "bomb/cyclone" that featured blizzard-like conditions combined with thunder and lightning, I was sitting here in my apartment starting my professional chocolatier program (and repeatedly expressing gratitude for not having lost power). While I'd had access to module 1 for the past two weeks and spent much of Wednesday ordering supplies and doing background reading, the course didn't officially start until January 5th.

Other than introducing ourselves in the forum and updating our online profiles, our first task was to conduct research on independent chocolatiers and begin to identify what type of chocolatier we want to be. Hand-crafted small batch? Large-scale production in a factory? Traditional or modern decorating techniques? Catering to particular industry trends (gluten-free, vegan, single origin chocolate, etc)? Storefront, eCommerce, or wholesale?

To be honest, when I first signed up for this program, I hadn't asked myself these questions. I think I signed up out of genuine curiosity and because I enjoy baking, making treats, and trying new recipes. I signed up because I am a multipotentialite (my new favourite word) who believes in lifelong education and likes to be challenged. Because it is an online program, I think that maybe I didn't put enough thought into the adjective "professional" and just what that meant, not only for me but for my fellow classmates (some of whom are trained pastry chefs). And yet having conducted the research for the first assignment, I now have a very clear idea in my head about what sort of business I want to run, what type of chocolates I want to produce, and how I will differentiate myself from the local competition. As I continue to blog about the program, I'll reveal what I've decided. For now, I'll leave you guessing.

As I reorient my brain to exactly what it is I've signed up for, I've also changed my approach to the supply list for the course. Initially, I had more of a "make do" attitude. Sure, I ordered the required 5kg of chocolate, transfer sheets, and food-grade acetate as instructed, but I thought I would "get by" with the chocolate molds I already own instead of buying professional polycarbonate molds. I also thought I'd avoid buying the "optional" items, like coloured cocoa butter. Once I had access to the 7 assignments (and interacted with one of my fellow students who is trained as a baker and pastry chef), I realized that was not the way to go. The tools can indeed have an impact on the final product and now that I have a vision for what I want to produce, there's no way to achieve that vision without buying a few additional items. And so a few more orders have been placed online.

Talking to my mother today, I joked that with this investment, everyone will be getting chocolates (and nothing else) for Christmas next year. So, if you're normally on my list, consider yourself warned.

All joking aside, I must confess that I'm excited about doing this. One of the assignments is a chocolate tasting with friends during which you sample a number of different chocolates and compare them. Who doesn't love an excuse for a chocolate party, especially during a long, cold winter? And I'm starting to think about inviting friends over to taste the five chocolates that I have to develop for two assignments (assuming they turn out). After all, I'm probably going to end up making about 20 or so pieces of each one. Perhaps I'll turn that tasting into a focus group and get some feedback on flavours and design in exchange for sweet treats.

However it works out, I know that I'm going to learn a lot.